Bvlgari and MB&F Reinvent the Serpenti Watch
In a meeting of two watchmaking powerhouses, Bvlgari and MB&F have once again joined forces to create a truly unprecedented timepiece: the Bvlgari x MB&F Serpenti. This collaboration reimagines Bvlgari’s iconic Serpenti motif, infusing it with the avant-garde mechanical artistry that defines MB&F’s horological machines. The result is a mesmerizing fusion of high jewellery and high watchmaking, a kinetic sculpture that slithers between tradition and innovation.
Bvlgari, founded in 1884, is synonymous with Italian elegance and Swiss precision, bringing to life some of the most iconic designs in the industry, including the Serpenti. Meanwhile, MB&F (Maximilian Büsser & Friends) has been redefining contemporary watchmaking since 2005, pushing the boundaries with timepieces that blend science fiction, supercars, and mechanical ingenuity. This collaboration is a natural evolution of their shared vision, first realised in 2021 with the MB&F x Bvlgari LM FlyingT Allegra. Now, their partnership reaches new heights with a bold reinterpretation of the Serpenti.
Crafting the Bvlgari x MB&F Serpenti required an entirely new approach to both case design and movement engineering. The watch’s complex, biomorphic case—far from a conventional round design—demands a meticulous balance of angles and curves, with each adjustment affecting the overall aesthetic. MB&F's expertise in three-dimensional mechanical sculptures comes into play here, with five-axis machining and sapphire crystals sculpted to mimic the hypnotic gaze of the serpent. The case is a feat of engineering, seamlessly blending curved metals and sapphire elements while maintaining water resistance up to 30 metres.
Inside, the movement breaks away from tradition, reflecting MB&F’s commitment to innovation. The revolving hour and minute domes animate the Serpenti’s eyes, an idea envisioned by Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, Bvlgari’s director of watchmaking creation. These lightweight, hand-finished aluminium domes glow with Super-LumiNova, ensuring that the serpent’s gaze endures even in darkness. The oversized 14mm flying balance wheel, a hallmark of MB&F’s craftsmanship, symbolises the reptilian brain, adding an extra dimension of complexity. As Maximilian Büsser notes, "At MB&F, we specialize in kinetic sculptures that give time, so it was definitely our calling. Nevertheless, the biomorphic design of this watch created enormous challenges."
Beyond its watchmaking brilliance, the Serpenti pays homage to automotive design—a passion shared by both creators. The case’s fluid curves, the hexagonal scale motif on the movement’s grille, and the sapphire crystal’s stepped structure all echo the aesthetics of high-performance sports cars. This unintentional but organic infusion of automotive influences gives the Serpenti a sculptural dynamism rarely seen in haute horlogerie.
Limited to just 99 pieces across three variations, the Bvlgari x MB&F Serpenti is available in grade 5 titanium with blue domes, 18K rose gold with piercing green eyes, and black PVD-coated stainless steel with vibrant red accents. Each model embodies a new frontier for Bvlgari’s most celebrated icon, transforming it into a genderless, mechanical marvel that captivates collectors and enthusiasts alike.
